The Importance of Toiling and 3 Reasons Why You Should Care
Although many of us are so keen to get through the creative process and simply get sewing our final garments, I am here to be a little but of a fun sponge (however that’s a fun sponge with a lower case “f”) as what I have to say will actually enhance and improve the quality of your garments in the long run if you just take a step back and take your time.
Now, I agree. Sometimes there’s nothing better than a quick project that serves a purpose to scratch the creative itch. Knock up a Belted Sweater in an afternoon or try a free Scrap Buster template to get your engines going, but I must encourage you in the majority of cases to actually toile your work.
WHAT IS A TOILE?
A toile is essentially a mock-up of your chosen design in a cheaper fabric alternative to assess the pattern and trial a ‘dummy run’ of the garment. Toile, pronounced “tw-aal” derives from the French word meaning “linen cloth” or “canvas” however in the fashion industry we use this across the board to suggest a 3D prototype of a 2D pattern.
Why should I toile?
1. TO ASSESS THE FIT AND DESIGN
Whether or not you have drafted the pattern yourself or you are using a pre-bought sewing pattern from another company, it is always a valuable stage in the fashion process to test how the garment will fit and analyse particular design details.
Don’t like the placement of that pocket? Move it. Redesign it. Abolish it all together.
Feel a bit snug around the chest? Make appropriate fitting amendments until it kisses the contours of your unique body.
As we know, there is no such thing as a cookie-cutter figure and size charts are a general spectrum. If you are really seeking high-end design and a wardrobe that celebrates your individuality ensure you are making clothes that fit like a glove.
2. PRACTICE TECHNIQUES
So you’re happy with the size, you’ve made something similar before but perhaps the design has a construction technique or textile choice that presents new territory for you?
Toiling for the purpose of practicing skills is a rather valid reason. You don’t want to fudge things up on your final look, do you? At the very least you could consider sewing up smaller samples and keeping them in your Fashion File.
3. IT’S CHEAPER (IN THE LONG RUN)
Okay, on the surface making an extra garment or two before your final garment might not seem cheaper but it really truly is… in the long run. Rushing into sewing up a garment in that gorgeous, pricey silk you purchased only to find it’s a bit tight on the hips or your snagged the textile using the wrong sewing needle? These are all costly errors that could be avoided with a simple mock up in a cheaper textile that hosts the same properties.
When I speak about hosting the same properties this is in relation to the weight of the fabric, the weave and the drape qualities. You wouldn’t toile a t-shirt in a medium weight woven calico, you’d toile it in an appropriate stretchy jersey knit.
Many people also turn to bedsheets for a suitable lightweight woven toiling fabric as you can buy these at a fraction of the cost from charity shops or thrift stores whilst getting a handsome amount of meterage/yardage for your coin.
Toiling isn’t about the final colour, print or finished look. It’s integral to the fashion process and aides in refining the quality and final look of an article of clothing.