Pattern Amendments: How to Get Better Fitting Trousers without the Overwhelm
There is nothing more rewarding than a good fitting pair of trousers (or pants, depending where you are in the world!). They can, however, be notoriously pesky to get right. So, how do we know what to look for? And when we spot the signs… what do they even mean?
Sit back, relax and maybe undo that top button because we’re about to get started on tailoring your trousers with your gorgeous unique figure in mind and without the overwhelm. Win-win!
Before You Start
Diagnosing fitting issues can be confusing at the best of times, but to set yourself up for success please make sure you toile your trousers.
Fitting is not just a case of pinching out here and there, it can involve cutting into the fabric for slash and spread purposes, introducing volume and altering the shape of the pattern altogether.
Imagine going gung ho into using that beautiful fabric you had in mind only to feel disheartened that it hasn’t worked and worse, can’t be rectified without compromising the quality of the finish.
Make a prototype up in a cheaper fabric that hosts similar properties e.g. weight, drape and weave. You’ll thank me for it later!
Initial Impressions
So, you’ve toiled your trousers (seriously, gold star for you) and you’ve put them on.
What are your first impressions telling you?
Make sure you’re stood straight and natural with your posture, are there any areas that feel overly tight or baggy?
It’s important to remember our clothes will naturally crease when we’re moving, but the signs of a good fit are a nice smooth surface when we’re stood erect and still. Can you see any obvious wrinkles, folds or drag lines? If so, notice the direction they lie. Often they will point to the issue.
Bending over or squatting down will highlight if your rise is long enough to cover you whilst taking photos opposed to reviewing in a mirror will provide a disconnected and analytical solution to assess the fit. If you are taking photos, ensure these are done at crotch height so you’re not distorting the view or skewing the diagnosis.
Finally, I would transfer all balance lines from your pattern to your toile. This would be drawn on as your hipline, upper thigh or crotch line, thigh, knee and calf. These can be incredibly useful when tweaking your pattern and incorporating amendments.
Diagnosing Fit Issues
If you’d like to benefit from direct access to a creative community and fashion mentor who can provide tailored support and visual responses to your questions, why not join The DPL Atelier? I help you to Create, Cut and Construct your dream wardrobe in a simple but powerful way and we deep dive into topics just like this so you can create clothes that fit.
As mentioned above, wrinkles can often help us diagnose the fit issue. When making amendments it’s wise to work in small increments when adding or removing volume and also applying one tweak at a time. This way you can clearly see what effect each technique has and methodically work through tailoring clothes to your unique figure.
A few examples to look out for include:
Lengthening or Shortening the Crotch
Drag lines that almost ‘frown’ at the crotch and point downwards often suggest too much length that will need to be removed. You can achieve this by removing width from the front upper thigh or inseam crotch, before truing it back into the leg.
Alternatively, if you notice drag lines ‘smiling’ at the crotch and pointing upwards, this can highlight the crotch length is too short and needs to be lengthened. Simply extend your front upper thigh or inseam crotch before truing it back into the leg.
flat or full pubis (a.k.a camel toes)
Notice fabric pooling at the crotch with horizontal folds? This could indicate your pubis is a little flat in relation to the cut of the pattern. Where the crotch curves on the pattern, draft it slightly shallower. A smaller increment of 0.5cm could make all the difference with this kind of tweak.
Alternatively, if you are fuller in the pubis and are experiencing what would informally be referred to as the “camel toe” - you may wish to curve your crotch further. If the seam digs in and vertical lines can be seen around the area then scoop out your front crotch curve a little more, again small increments can make a big difference.
Full Tummy or Seat
Finally, you may notice diagonal lines radiating from your tummy or rear. This would suggest more volume needs to be accommodated. To do so, using the slash and spread technique, cut along your pattern across the hipline at the front crotch length for the tummy or the back crotch length for the seat, leaving a hinge at the outerleg. Pivot and open your pattern up the distance needed to accommodate your figure, this method will add both length and width.
Flat Seat or Thin Thigh
Alternatively, a flat seat or thin thigh will show itself through diagonal lines underneath the buttocks and bagginess to the back of the trousers. Using the slash and spread technique, cut along your pattern at the back crotch length across the hipline, leaving a hinge at the outerleg. Pivot and overlap your pattern to accommodate your figure.
Trousers can be a notoriously technical garment to fit as we are essentially considering three tubes of fabric and their relation to our unique figure. First, the top section of a trouser is much like a skirt fitting to our waist and hip before it splits into two tubes that wrap around our legs.
Always take your time and analyse each step to really absorb the effect your changes are having, and if you enjoyed this blog post/video and would like to continue your creative process, don’t forget I’m at my best in our fashion membership The DPL Atelier.
I would love to welcome you behind the doors and help you build your wardrobe on your terms. Designed by you. Made by you. Worn by you.
Stay safe and keep creative.
